SURFING THE “BIG WAVE”
The Science of Ocean Wave Dynamics
(posted: February 2013)
* All scripture references are from the New King James Version (NKJV) of the Bible, unless otherwise noted.
On Monday, January 28, 2013, big wave surfer Garrett McNamara rode a massive 100 foot wall of water into the record book 1, smashing his own world record by over 20 feet.
The rocky coastline of Nazare, Portugal has a deep water canyon that funnels in monster waves to the base of the cliffs, producing some of the largest waves on earth.
Yet the waves on this particular day were even larger than usual as “... the conditions in Nazare were heavenly perfect.” 2 They were indeed heavenly perfect, as we shall see.
The biblical day pattern for the 28th day of the month is chapter 28 and 58 of the appropriate books. It only takes a quick read-through of these chapters in the Torah (books of Moses), the major prophets, the gospels, and the book of Acts to see the details of the event “pop out”. As always, the event links to the Bible chapters by date, and not by topic, using a pattern formula that never changes. It works the same way every time.
Job 28:9, 10, 12, 14, 24, 25
9. ... He overturns the mountains at the roots.
10. He cuts out channels in the rocks ...
[The mechanism for the huge waves at Nazare.]
“Nazare is known as a prime spot for big rides. The
waves roll in off the Atlantic Ocean and travel along
the undersea canyon that generates some of the biggest
waves on the planet.” 2
“McNamara was towed by a jetski onto the largest
wave, which formed over an undersea canyon known
as one of the biggest wave-generators on the
“There is an underwater canyon ... that runs from the
ocean right up to the cliffs. It’s like a funnel.”2
... when there is a big swell, it acts like an amplifier.” 3
12. But where can wisdom be found? And where is the place
14. The deep says, “It is not in me”, and the sea says, “It is
not with me.”
“Half the people think I’m out of my mind ... and half are
just - I think they all think I’m crazy, actually.” 4
24. For He looks to the ends of the earth ...
“The waves break into cliffs 300 feet (91) meters) in
25a. To establish a weight for the wind, ...
“The conditions in the Nazare were heavenly perfect.
Light southern winds and strong swell ... .” 2
b. ... and apportion the water by measure.
[The wave that day had to be measured to establish
the world record for big waves.]
“McNamara is waiting confirmation of the size of the
latest wave and whether a new record was set.” 2
“Authorities ... have asked two experts from the US
to certify the size of the wave.” 3
“The record wave’s 90 feet height still must be verified
through videos and photos to officially eclipse the
old “big wave” surfing record of 77 feet.” 4
Isaiah 28:2, 15
2a. ... like a flood of mighty waters overflowing, ...
“The town’s surfing company ... was trying to find out
exactly how massive the wave had been.” 3
“... Nazare had been hit by a massive northwest swell.” 3
b. ... who will bring them down to earth with His hand.
“The waves break into cliffs 300 feet 91 meters in height.” 3
15. ... when the overflowing scourge passes through, it will
not come to us, ...
“The daredevil surfer ... says the monstrous wave ‘just
popped out of nowhere!’ “ 4
“ ‘This wave was very different,’ Garrett McNamara said.
‘This just jacked up, broke, actually kind of barreled, and
went to run me over, and somehow by the grace of God,
I made it.’ “ 4
14. “Then you shall delight yourself in the Lord; and I will
cause you to ride on the high hills of the earth, ... .
The mouth of the Lord has spoken.”
“McNamara described the sensation as like skiing on
the steepest, iciest trail on a big mountain ...” 4
“Still McNamara said that once he’s riding on that
moving mountain of water ... .” 4
2. “Because your heart is lifted up and you say, ‘I am a god, I sit
in the seat of gods in the midst of the seas,’ yet you are a man
and not a god, ... .”
[As a speck in the ocean, so McNamara was lifted on the
“Photographs and video taken on January 28 show the
45 - year old as a small speck on a towering wave as he
plunges down its face.” 3
Luke 4:10, 11 (As Luke has only 24 chapters, the day count starts over with chapter 1 as day 25, chapter 2 as day 26, etc. Therefore, January 28 is
represented by chapter 4 in the gospel of Luke.)
10. “For it is written, ‘He shall give His angels charge over you
to keep you.’
11. and, ‘in their hands they shall bear you up, lest you dash
your foot against a stone.’ “
[What prevented McNamara from being dashed on the
rocks as the 100 foot wave crashed into the 300 foot
cliffs? Luck? Coincidence?]
“It’s unique. The waves break into cliffs 300 feet in height.
You can’t contemplate coming off because it would kill
G.M. (Garrett McNamara)
“... somehow by the grace of God, I made it.” 4
“it was like it was meant to be, ...” 4
John 7:37, 38 (As John has only 21 chapters, day 28 is represented by chapter 7 in the gospel of John. See Luke 4 above.)
37. ... Jesus stood and cried out, saying, “If anyone thirsts,
let him come to Me and drink.
38. He who believes in Me, as the Scripture has said, out of
his heart will flow rivers of living water.”
[How big is the river of living water that comes into and
flows out of our heart in Christ Jesus? Like a 100 foot wall
“Once it gets to a certain size, there’s so much water
moving ... . 4
“Still, McNamara said that once he’s riding that moving
mountain of water ‘100 percent instinct takes overs,
‘surfing with heart.’ “ 4
Jesus is not just a trickle of living water. No, He’s like a mountain of living water that imparts life to our mortal bodies. Though at times we may feel dashed on the rocks of life, He is there to sustain us and deliver us into eternal life, if we believe and trust in Him. How should that make us feel? Have you ever surfed a 100-foot wave?